Calistoga Dreamin'

8/5, 0810, Calistoga Roastery, Calistoga, CA – The longer I’m in Wine Country, the more I appreciate its (at first) subtle beauty. Routes that were at first mundane and mildly commercialized have started to reveal themselves as scenic drives of impressive beauty. It could be that I’m growing more familiar with the area, or becoming more discerning in what I chose to pay attention to, but the bottom line is Wine Country (and Napa Valley, in which I’ve spent the most time) is growing on me (pun intended).

As I stated earlier, St. Helena made quite an impression. This morning, Calistoga made an even bigger one. Perhaps it was because I once again got up ridiculously early and hit the road hoping to avoid the crowds. I achieved that. The drive from Vallejo to Calistoga was wide open and uncrowded. The rising sun illuminated the western valley slopes, separating them from the misty eastern slopes, and highlighted features I’d not seen – or at least noticed – during my previous drives. It was refreshing and fulfilling. There are benefits to being a morning person.

As I headed north on Hwy. 29 out of St. Helena, I was in unexplored territory. What an eye-opener! The valley narrows, the mountains seem higher (perhaps because of their proximity), and the greenery more lush. Far more pines appeared than in the south valley.

Then, Calistoga. A long main (Lincoln Ave.) street filled with old buildings - shops, restaurants, galleries, etc. – reminding me of Telluride, CO…but flatter. For a more local comparison, like St. Helena…but longer and with more businesses. It’s every bit as quaint, intimate (if not more so), and inviting. The main street is book-ended by the northern valley’s mountains and the storied Silverado Trail ends just outside town.

Just within the 45 minutes or so that I’ve been in town, I’ve watched it come to life outside the window of this coffee shop. Traffic starting to build up, more people arriving and strolling up and down the sidewalks. It appears the weekend Napa Valley crowds are starting to arrive.

Sterling Vineyards is first on my list, a mountain-top winery accessible by tram. Then, I head back south (if I can somehow tear myself from Calistoga).

0920, Sterling Vineyards, Calistoga, CA – Yeah, Calistoga is the best kept secret in Napa Valley. This place is nice. I walked Lincoln Ave. from stem to stern, then returned to my car. I departed – somewhat unwillingly – eastward and turned south on Silverado Trail. Within about a quarter mile, I had to stop to take a picture of the eastern slopes. This is beautiful country, indeed. A short drive and here I am at Sterling. You may think it crazy to arrive an hour before opening, but so far the peaceful, sleepy nature of Napa Valley as it awakens is a beautiful thing. In addition, many of the wineries have beautifully landscaped and manicured gardens worthy of exploration while awaiting opening time.

Sterling is no exception. I’m surrounded by rose gardens, which – I should point out – actually serve a purpose here in Wine Country. Roses are EVERYWHERE. I learned during the Sebastiani tour that roses show evidence of mildew ever-so-slightly before mildew starts to build up on grape clusters. So, the roses are the canary in the mineshaft, so to speak. If the field workers or property managers notice mildew on the roses, it’s time to take evasive action on the grapevines.

So, this gives me another opportunity to shoot some photos for my beloved wife – the rose in my life – to be sent along with my next e-mail to her.

1436, Ana’s Cantina, St. Helena, CA – The Sterling tour was excellent. Outstanding, in fact. The wine, as expected, was first class. The tour, though…well, the facility AND the tour… were incredible. The winery sits upon a mountain-top overlooking the Calistoga portion of Napa Valley and views are spectacular. The winery is, as most are these days, quite modern. The tasting room and store are both beautiful. The winery is designed to resemble a Spanish mission similar to those that helped settle this area. The tram ride alone was exciting and full of beautiful vistas. Once you got to the patio tasting area (there were three total tastings) the views were spectacular. I recommend Sterling to anyone who is touring Napa.

I returned to Silverado Trail stopping briefly at Duckhorn Winery, then a quick detour up into Deer Park to see Burgess Winery. Burgess is appointment only – and I didn’t have one – but the view from the winery was even more spectacular than Sterling’s.

Beringer had been on my list for days, and despite being told the day’s tours were sold out, I went anyway. I’m glad I did. The 1:30 tour had an opening. After a tasting of three Beringer reds (did I mention I was partial to reds?)…Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon…I did the tour which included their caves. I’d not been in a winery’s caves since 1976 in Reims, France. What a treat.



So, that leaves Mondavi, which is on the way back to Vallejo. The only real “appointment” I have tomorrow is at Raymond Vineyards – a long-anticipated visit, since I’ve had so many great Raymond wines over the years. The rest of the day is “open,” though I do have to spend some time prepping for Point Reyes and Guerneville.

This will be the last time I have Internet access today, so I’ll submit this now. It’s a beautiful day and I don’t want to waste it sitting in a bar…even if that bar IS in St. Helena in Napa Valley and the beer is cold and inviting.

Southward I’m headed.