Raymond Trumps All and Farewell to Wine Country

8/6, 1002, Raymond Winery, St. Helena, CA – First one here again. I swear, people are missing some of the most precious moments at these wineries by not being here in the morning. Granted, drinking wine this early has its drawbacks. Of course, the fact no one else is around, and the solitude that results, may have something to do with the tranquility that I’ve discovered. Ya’ think?

I drove up Silverado Trail to get here. It, too, is less known and, therefore, less utilized. I do believe I may have figured out where the population of Napa are on Sunday mornings. Riding bikes on Silverado Trail. I think there were almost as many bike riders on Silverado Trail at this hour as there are cars on Hwy. 29.

Why does Raymond hold such a special place in my wine interests? I have enjoyed a number of their wines over the years, mostly Cabernets, and they have been not only been consistent, but consistently great wines. Almost as important is that my wife’s first son, my older stepson, is named Raymond and I’ve watched Raymond “age” and mature like a bottle of wine for the last 7 years. It’s been an adventure for us both and I think we’ve reached that point where we’re enjoying each other’s existence in our lives and have developed a healthy respect for one another. So, the name “Raymond” has a number of special meanings to me. Needless to say, if the winery store has caps and shirts, I’ll be buying a few.

The winery is located on Zinfandel Rd. just outside St. Helena between Hwy. 29 and Silverado Trail. The grounds are tastefully manicured – not opulent, but beautiful nonetheless – and the dark stone entrance is classy, yet understated. Raymond Vineyards isn’t one that does all kinds of marketing or glitzy advertising to get your attention. Their wines speak for them and their wines have had a lot to say to me. The buildings are not architectural wonders either. They do not draw attention to themselves. Tasteful, not gawdy, and simple. The first thing that struck me when I got out of the car was the aroma in the air. A mixture of lavender and the flowering trees that flank the parking lot. Sweet, soothing…most pleasant. A large, round stone planter anchors a sitting area around which benches with umbrellas and smaller planters with evergreens and flowers are placed. More lavender is in the center of the planter, so the scent is inescapable. Ahhhhh….

I was also first and, for the longest time, the only person at Downtown Joe’s for breakfast. I chose to eat in the bar, near the WiFi and an all-important power outlet (otherwise I probably wouldn’t have the battery power to be writing now). The chorizo scramble was good, though Texas chorizo has far more taste than the sausage used at DJ’s. Nonetheless, it was a tasty and filling (and, like most things in California, expensive) breakfast and should fuel me for the day and give me a “base” in my digestive system upon which to pour tastes of wine this morning and early this afternoon. On the way up Silverado Trail, I saw several wineries I’d like to visit on my way back south.

It is interesting to see all these wineries I’ve heard and read so much about in Wine Spectator for all these years “in the flesh.” I can certainly see how a wine snob’s visit to Wine Country would “personalize” their hobby and influence the perception of their enjoyment of these wines in the future. For the first time, I have real “visuals” to which to refer when I’m enjoying a particular wine.

Whoa….another blast of lavender…..ooooooo.

Well, 30 minutes until the tour begins. The winery is officially open and I suspect the wine/gift shop is open as well. I might as well take advantage of being the only one here and go in. More later.

1411, back at Downtown Joe’s, Napa, CA – I promised the bartender I’d be back. I’m back. So, with an ice water on one side and a Tail Waggin’ Amber Ale on the other, I submit my afternoon report.

I spoke with my wife by phone about 45 minutes ago and told her, “We’ll be buying a lot of Raymond wine from now on.” Here’s the background…

I arrived at Raymond at opening time, but was under the impression my appointment was at 11am (all my notes say 11:00). Apparently, they were expecting me at 10:00. So, for the first ½ hour or so of my “tour,” I sat writing the above blog marveling at their courtyard and ambience of their winery. As it turned out, it didn’t matter because when I went in around 10:30 or so, I was still the first and only person to have arrived at the winery. So began a winery tour to rival – if not exceed - the Rubicon experience.

“Exceed,” you snort? “Exceed Rubicon?” Read on, friends.


Cathy of Raymond’s hospitality staff was expecting me. She graciously welcomed me and we were soon sitting at a table in the tasting room. Because of the one-on-one nature of our tour, and the fact she knew I’d been to quite a number of tours over the last few days, she quickly assessed what I did and didn’t know and on the fly created a tour for me.

I briefly explained how much Raymond’s wines meant to me and how I so enjoyed my Raymond Cabs and kept the last of my ‘97s Cabs squirreled away in my coolers awaiting “just that right moment.” We also discussed the family connection of the “Raymond” name to our family.

Cathy recounted the history of the Raymond family (see http://www.raymondvineyards.com/ourstory/ ) and I learned right off the back that the winery’s “pedigree” grew out of the Beringer Winery, not a bad set of roots to begin with in Napa Valley! As the Beringer operation grew and morphed into the monster it now is, the Raymond “wing” chose to take their inheritance at what turned out to be an opportune moment and start their own winery on a piece of property that snuggled the border of the Rutherford and St. Helena districts (St. Helena starts quite literally “across the street”). Totally, there are five Raymond generations involved in Napa Valley winemaking, three of which are involved directly or indirectly with the Raymond label.

No wonder I like their wines! A Beringer pedigree! Wow!

Cathy then led me on a tour of the facility that included the crushing, processing, fermenting, blending, labs, aging, and distribution facilities. She was a extraordinary guide, knew her stuff quite well…she educational, entertaining, and a delight with whom to chat (we went on at least couple “tangents” outside the formal tour material). The smell of the wine and oak in the storage building was as intoxicating as the wine. I love that smell!

Once back at the tasting room, Cathy commenced a sampling Raymond’s “wares.” I received what can only be described as an extraordinarily generous “Tour de Raymond.” I can’t even begin – seriously, I’m not kidding - to express my appreciation and gratitude to her for both her wonderful personal tour of Raymond’s facilities and wines, as well as the time, effort, and attention she paid to me during my visit. I felt like a visiting prince. I raise my glass – and will continue raising glasses for years to come – of Raymond wine to their wonderful wines.

I concentrated on cabs, fully. Cathy poured Raymond’s Napa Valley Reserve (the very fine “standard” – and I use “standard” in the best sense - cabs that inhabit my collection), the relatively new Rutherford and St. Helena “District” cabs (the Rutherford was my favorite between the two, though both were beautifully made), and the real surprise, their Generations series 100% Cabernet. I’d never had a 100% cabernet. Cabernets are almost always blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, or some other red to mellow the “in your face” nature of the Cabernet. Needless to say, I was a little intimidated. Rightfully so, in some ways. Not so in others. It was a blockbuster. A stunning, powerful Red that – while it knocked you back a step or two – did so with finesse, class, and refinement. Cathy explained that Raymond’s longtime winemaker – Walter Raymond – obsessively chooses the grapes that go into the Generations cab, and rightfully so since – for the most part – the releases have been 100% cabernet sauvignon. It showed. The 2002 Generations was amazing. Not many wineries would have the intestinal fortitude to release a 100% cab. Raymond did. It’s outstanding.

She also poured Raymond’s Napa Valley Reserve Merlot, which was also quite tasty and could easily make a believer out of those who are now “poo-pooing” Merlot (damn that “Sideways” movie!).

The weird part of my visit is Cathy practically quoted parts of what I wrote above (before I even went into the winery) about my impressions of Raymond Vineyards and their wines. I mentioned that Raymond is rather subtle with their marketing and lets their wines “do the talking.” She mentioned the say thing at the beginning of our chat. She also mentioned that because of the long family tradition and the fact that one family member has been involved in the blending of Raymond’s cabernets all these years, the consistency is extraordinarily high. Did I not cite their high quality and consistency earlier while sitting in their courtyard? It was eerie! I really DO have a connection with their wines!

Another surprise was that the the Raymond family entered into a partnership with the company that brews the Japanese beer Kirin. The relationship is rather unique in that Kirin doesn’t really stick it’s nose into Raymond’s business that deeply and overwhelm the family operation like so many other corporate partnerships. My sense is Kirin treats Raymond like Oakland Raiders owner Al Davis treats his coaches and teams: “Just win, baby.” Raymond Vineyards – and Cathy Chase – are both winners in my book. What a way to start my last day in Napa Valley!

As promised, shirts, tops, and hats were purchased. Stepson Raymond may not fully understand the significance of the Raymond name on his shirt – other than it’s his name – but the folks at Raymond and I know why I like Raymond wines and I know why their wines are so polished, classy, consistent, and a cornerstone my my cellar collection.

You have to pity Silverado and Pine Ridge wineries, both of which I visited on my return trip to Napa via Silverado Trail. I’d had the best winery visit and the best tastings of the day – if not the entire visit to Wine Country – earlier that morning at Raymond. I gave Silverado a chance with a tasting. Their Sangiovese was pretty good, their Merlot was tasty, but a bit too dry for my taste. Their Cabernet – much to my surprise, considering their location (Stag’s Leap District, known for Cabs) was unimpressive and, well, “green.” Impressive winery (as was Pine Ridge, which I chose not to taste), but the wines didn’t meet the standard that’d been set by Raymond. Bad timing, guys…I apologize.

So, I retuned to Downtown Joe’s (there were homemade brews to try) and have ended up trying a pint of their Tail Waggin’ Amber and – after ordering their chicken/portbella/sun-dried tomato fettucine alfredo – a special, limited edition Honey Tail Waggin’ Amber Ale. Good food, good brews, fine view of Napa on a beautiful summer day…and free WiFi. All I need to do is get some more sun and it’ll be a perfect way to spend my last day in Wine Country.

So, what did I learn from my trip to Wine Country? Don’t come on a weekend. It’s a madhouse. Silverado Trail, St. Helena, and Calistoga are currently the REAL stars of a Napa Valley visit, Vallejo is NOT where to stay, unless you can’t afford otherwise (which I decided – and still feel – I couldn’t), and Downtown Joe’s makes a decent amber ale, but an even better honey amber ale (they should make it all the time).

The tours at Rubicon and Raymond were the winners in the “outstanding winery tour” competition, though both had the advantage of me showing up early and there being practically (and, in Raymond’s case, literally) no one else on the tour. Rubicon raise the bar, Raymond set up their own high jump and leaped over everyone else.

Remember, actually mileage may very. I was probably WAY more fortunate than most other visitors to Wine Country. No, I was definitely more fortunate. My thanks to all the wineries I visited and to Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley both (especially to Cathy at Raymond and the young man who was my guide at Rubicon). What a region. What an industry. What a visit.

If you thought I was snob before this vacation, you don't want to be around me now!

So, now, I head back to the hotel to gather together my gear and prepare for seven days of camping along the California Pacific coast. My postings will probably not be as numerous, but I have a lot to see, a lot to experience, a lot of contemplating and reflecting to do, and a lot of “roughing it” (by my standards, at least) to do. If I see a “free WiFi” in someones window, I’ll stop in and upload what I can.

Until then, my best to you all. Thanks for following my journey. I’ll be back in touch as soon as circumstances allow.

And with that, I’m off to the Pacific coast.

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